I'm not terribly religious -- more spiritual, I suppose -- but it was fascinating to step into nexuses of history and faith while in Israel. From the silver star that marks the birth of Jesus in Bethlehem... to the Stations of the Cross en route to dreadful Golgotha... to the footprint in the floor of the Chapel of Ascension on top of the Mount of Olives. Something happened here. Maybe not quite the stories we heard in Sunday School. But something with the willpower to survive millennia.